Explore the Wonders of
“The Covenant of Water”

This Siren Sojourns adventure ushers you into the pages of Abraham Verghese’s astonishing novel as we explore a landscape defined and enlivened by that most essential element:  water. 

Together we’ll breathe in the scents and sights of the tranquil islands and slender peninsulas that make up this breathtaking part of southern India, where the land is steeped in ancient tales and Indian tradition comes alive.

“The Covenant of Water” will be our guide as we roam Kerala’s waterways, riverside villages and cool mountain sanctuaries that are home to endangered birds and wildlife.  We’ll sample the foods the novel’s characters created, take a cooking class together and share the awe and wonder of our experiences over serendipitous and planned book conversations. 

Day One, Nov. 18th
Wing your way with Kerri from our adventure in Bhutan’s Dragon Kingdom to Kochi, India or fly directly to Kerala for a rendezvous with our guides.  

As we wind through the shaded streets of this historic city, known as the “Queen of the Arabian Sea,” we’ll spot the architecture and art that reveals a vivid blend of cultures.

We’ll also recall Abraham Verghese’s infusion of faith traditions in the novel (remember Big Ammachi’s Christian prayers?) as we learn about Kerala’s intriguing mix of religious rituals expressed in beautiful mosques, churches and synagogues.

We’ll check into our hotel and gather in the evening for a Foodie tour of Kochi and a classical dance performance. 

Breakfast, Dinner 
Lodging: Fragrant Nature Hotel, Kochi

“The moon hangs low like a lantern, illuminating the angular scaffolding of the Chinese fishing nets, more than a dozen of them along the water’s edge.  The poles crane out over the water like long-necked shore birds, while the netting billows like the sails of dhows.”  The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese.

Day Two, Nov. 19th
Rise to the languorous sounds of a southern port city and partake of a splendid breakfast before we embark on a walking tour of a city that was at the heart of the ancient spice trade thousands of years ago.  

“Legend has it that Saint Thomas arrived in 52AD, disembarking close to present-day Cochin.  He met a boy returning from the temple.  “Does your God hear your prayers,” he asked.  The boy said his God surely did.  Saint Thomas tossed water into the air and the droplets remained suspended.  “Can your God do that?”

By such displays, whether magic or miracles, he converted a few Brahmin families to Christianity; later he was martyred in Madras.”  The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese.

Imagine parcels of cinnamon, saffron, ginger and pepper being loaded onto camels and horses so they could be carried away from the Malabar Coast and into Europe and beyond.  There was a time when nutmeg sold on the streets of European capitals for more than gold. 

As we walk, we’ll see historic spice warehouses and learn about how the fishing trade drew Portuguese and Chinese immigrants, who put their stamp on Kochi’s culture.

After a refreshing lunch, we’ll head for the bracing air and renowned sanctuaries of the Western Ghat Mountains.

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Lodging: Windermere, Munnar

Day Three, Nov 20th
Remember how Abraham Verghese described Kerala in “The Covenant of Water”?  

“The home…lies in Travancore, at the southern tip of India, sandwiched between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats…The land is shaped by water and its people united by a common language Malayalam.”

Our day will begin in one of the world’s most ecologically diverse natural sanctuaries for birds, plants and animals including tigers, bears and Asiatic elephants.

We’ll make a gradual ascent through high altitude rain forests and into grasslands, pausing to take in panoramic views of the hills and rivers and plains.

As we climb, we’ll be in the highlands described in “The Covenant of Water” where tea is cultivated and the mist lies heavy over the forestlands that climb the mountainsides.

We’ll picnic in the trees and then descend for a glass of wine, a relaxing dinner and a wonderful book conversation from our list.

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Lodging: Windermere

Day Four, Nov 21st
“On a magical morning in March, a hundred acres of Gwendolyn Gardens will look blanketed in snow because of an overnight explosion of the glorious white coffee blossoms.”  The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese.

Rise refreshed and restored and avail yourself of a nourishing breakfast because we are headed back into the bracing air of the mountain woodlands and an evergreen cloud forest!  Elephants wander the paths (We’ll hear them coming & get out of the way!) birds will sing from the top of the tree canopy and native flowers grow on the forest floors.

As we walk, breathe in the hint of cinnamon on the breeze.  That’s cardamom and we’re headed for the ‘Cardamom Hills,’ an area of Kerala where the spice has been grown for millennia.  Tea and coffee plantations also dot the hills and we’ll see how it’s grown

We’ll picnic in the forest and learn about the flora and fauna that make these fertile lands so singular.  Our day will conclude in Periyar where we’ll check into our secluded hotel and prepare for one of the trip’s most exciting days ahead.

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Lodging: Cardamom County

Day Five, Nov. 22nd
Our morning will begin before the mists have cleared the hills because we're headed for the extraordinary Periyar Tiger Reserve.  Of all of the wildlife preserves in India, this one is praised for its progressive wildlife management.  

Our guides along the paths and through the grasslands will be former poachers who have now turned their skills to protecting the animals that live here.  They share in the proceeds from the reserve and take pride in the wildlife ecosystem they are guarding and sharing.

We’ll spot macaque, Barking deer, leopards, tigers and elephants.  It will be a magical day.

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Lodging: Cardamom County

Day Six, Nov. 23rd
“Out from the canals now, onto a carpet of lotus and lilies so thick she could walk across it.  The flowers are opened like well-wishers.  Impulsively she picks one blossom, grabbing the stem anchored deep down.  It comes free with a splash, a pink jewel….”  The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese.

Rise for a leisurely breakfast and then we’ll descend from the pristine forests of the Western Ghats to the famed Backwaters of Kerala.  These are rivers and canals, lagoons and waterways that form a sparkling labyrinth between the mountains and the Arabian Sea.

Note the traditional Kerala architecture of sloped roofs and carved walls as we head for a historic villa that will transport us into Kerala’s past.

Vinod’s home was built more than a century ago and we’ll learn about the traditions that are still observed here.

We’ll partake of traditional kuttanadan cuisine and sample the spices that are cultivated on Vinod’s family estate.

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Lodging: Emerald Isle

Day Seven, Nov 24th
We are truly immersing ourselves in the world that Abraham Verghese created in “The Covenant of Water” as we drift through the canals on a wooden houseboat.  We’ll see traditional villages and learn about the farming done in the backwaters.

There will be time to soak up the sunshine and discuss “The Covenant of Water” as we take in the sights and sounds of such a wondrous place.

“A fruity scent fills the boat.  She counts twenty-four petals (on the lotus.)  Pushing through the lotus carpet they emerge onto a lake so wide that the far shore is invisible, the water still and smooth.”  The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese.

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Lodging: Emerald Isle

Day Eight, Nov 25th
Luxuriate in our beautiful surroundings on this lovely morning as we gather for breakfast and then we’ll head for the interior of Kerala.

We’ll learn about spice farming, which is passed on through generations, and the culinary traditions that have emerged from these agricultural settlements.

Our midday meal will be a traditional farm-to-table experience.

“Naturally, when spices fetched the price of precious jewels in Europe, the Arab sailors who brought them from India kept their source a secret for centuries.”  The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese.

It is also an opportunity to learn more about the religious traditions that date back to St. Thomas’s missionary work here.  Nasrani or St Thomas Christians have built communities here that are focused on church attendance and religious festivals.  We’ll meet a family who live and work in the tradition of those early Christians.

“Those first converts–Saint Thomas Christians–stayed true to the faith and did not marry outside their community.  Over time they grew, knitted together by their customs and their churches.”  The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese.

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner
Lodging: Emerald Isle

Day Nine, Nov. 26th
We will rise with thoughts of roasting turkeys and eight days of wonderful camaraderie on our minds as we prepare to fly home in time for Thanksgiving.